Backstage at Missoni Men’s RTW Spring 2015 [ Photos by Kuba Dabrowski ]
Preview of the Dior Homme Summer 2015 collection. See full collection on Dior.com.
Stratification, manipulation and subtle contrasts of textures, feelings, aesthetic effects, periods and situations. For Salvatore Ferragamo’s Spring 2015 collection, Massimiliano Giornetti seeks an idea of sentimental elegance made of recollections and dignity. A focus on lightness by removing weight from matter, thickening the optical effect of weaves and graphics, which merge into a dynamic and deliberately imperfect visual texture. Expert Italian tailoring, an intrinsic part
of the house’s DNA, is combined with sportswear to create a new archetype of the male wardrobe, acquiring an unprecedented, impalpable consistency unbound to seasons. Precise lines and perfect
details are the backdrop for a tactile experience, a necessary condition of the modern flaneur who achieves effortless rigour.
Lines are pure and elongated with timeless features. Overcoats, double-breasted jackets, shirt-necked blousons, trousers with double pleats and shorts are reduced to their barest essence. They are made of ultra-light wool fabric on which printed hatchings and marks counterpoint
the basic weave, designing surfaces that invite close exploration and trigger a feeling of placid surprise.
Even shirts are created with weightless blends of wool and silk. T-shirts with the impalpable texture typical of layering are enhanced by thick embroidery that reproduces gestural patterns. Concealed in the lining, large giraffe prints express the individual taste for the unexpected. The quest for experimental craftsmanship revisits a key trait of Ferragamo’s world, the expression of unique imagination that spans time charged with an inventive spirit and intuition, rigorous method and free associations.
The colour palette ranges from intense shades of beige, sandy brown, off-white, hide, pewter, rust and dark blue-green all merged into the idea of an intimate and shaded yet scorched summer. Accessories mark a strong presence as the element that creates new balances in the search
for perfect imperfection. Sandals and multi-material lace-up shoes have high soles and thick fringes that recall the world of utility. The concept of accumulation that characterises the collection becomes paroxysmal in the combination of merging hues and precious leather. Large waxed suede travel bags with contrasting corners are re-interpreted archetypes that express a sophisticated travelling style.